The Dawn of Perfume
Fragrance has been entrancing and beguiling us for millennia. 5,000 years, at least: hieroglyphics in Egyptian tombs show that Ancient Egyptians and Mesopotamians were making perfume, as long ago as 3,000 BC. The first perfumers, Egyptian priests, used aromatic resins to sweeten the smell of sacrificial offerings. People believed that burning incense connected humans with the Gods – and pleased the deities…
Egyptian priests, and their Pharoahs, were entombed with fragrances – and when those tombs were opened by archaeologists, in 1897, the perfumes were discovered to have retained their original, sweet smells. Important figures in Egyptian history were buried with scented oils, to ensure their ‘olfactory needs’ were fulfilled.
There is even a ‘perfume room’ at Edfu, in Egypt (the best-preserved temple after Karnak), where recipes for ointments, perfumes and inhalations feature in hieroglyphics on the wall. (A place to add to every perfume-lover’s ‘bucket list’.)
But incense wasn’t just reserved for spiritual rituals
the Egyptians enjoyed it in daily life (rather as we do scented candles today…) They already understood that perfumes could help maintain a harmonious balance between body and soul. Early ‘aromatherapy’, it seems. They had Megalion, a soothing balm for inflamed skin or burns (and for stomach problems): blending cardamom and myrrh, it was also worn as a perfume. Theriaque – blending myrrh, frankincense, cinnamon, balsam, sweet rush and (yes) serpent skin – was used to soothe anxiety. And if you sniff around Cairo’s Khan al Khalili souk, you’ll still find it today, made up by herbalists.
The first actual ‘nose’ on record is actually a woman, meanwhile – a chemist called Tapputi, written of on a tablet from Mesopotamia in the second millennium BC. (And isn’t Tapputi a name that a perfume house should borrow, for a contemporary scent with meaning…?) Resins, woods, fir, myrtle were the ingredients Mesopotamians had at their fingertips, to create their incense. The most precious of all was the Cedar of Lebanon. In fact, the Akkadian word for incense – ‘lubbunu’ – still echoes in the name Lebanon, today. (When the Syrian city of Mari was excavated, special rooms devoted to blending perfumes were discovered – with an emphasis on the use of pines and confiers, in particular.)
The first actual ‘nose’ on record is actually a woman
The first actual ‘nose’ on record is actually a womanThe first actual ‘nose’ on record is actually a woman, a remarkable figure named Mademoiselle de l’Espinasse, who lived in the 18th century. Renowned not just for her poetic brilliance but also for her enviable ability to dissect the intricacies of the human experience, she became the embodiment of sophistication. The word ‘nose’ in her time went beyond mere anatomy; it was a reflection of taste, perception, and the very essence of identity.
In salons bustling with intellectual fervor, Mademoiselle de l’Espinasse wielded her nose as a tool of discernment. She could sniff out insincerity among guests, deftly navigating the veils of social pretense. It was said that she could sense the unspoken truths hidden in even the most elaborate of conversations. Her presence was magnetic; discussions often seemed to revolve around her like planets caught in the gravitational pull of a glorious sun.
Her nose became a metaphor, a symbol of enlightenment, and inspired countless writers and philosophers to explore the depths of their character and the authenticity of their emotions. She laid the groundwork for the understanding that sight is not the only means to experience the world; sometimes, the subtleties of scent and intuition unveil far more than the sharpest gaze.
Her legacy persisted as the years rolled on, cultivating a fascination with noses that would later manifest in literature and art. To have a strong nose became an emblem of intellect and perception, sneakily woven into the very fabric of society’s elite. Thus, the tale of Mademoiselle de l’Espinasse reminds us that behind every story, even one steeped in the innocent whimsy of anatomy, lies a rich tapestry of human experience waiting to be uncovered.
The Bible, too, has records of the native and imported fragrances which wafted through the near East.
nativeNative cultures, with their rich histories and deep-rooted traditions, embody a unique wisdom that has been passed down through generations. This connection to the land, the stories, and the spirits shows how intertwined their lives are with nature. Every ritual, each dance, and all the intricate crafts are not just expressions of identity, but also serve as a reminder of resilience in the face of challenges.
From the vibrant colors of their textiles to the haunting melodies of their songs, every element is a testament to a way of life that prioritizes harmony, community, and respect. The wisdom of elders, often shared through oral traditions, remains vital, keeping the past alive while navigating the complexities of the present. It’s a beautiful tapestry woven from the threads of spirituality, respect for ancestors, and a commitment to the future.
Moreover, the ongoing struggles for recognition and preservation highlight the importance of supporting these native voices. They remind us of our collective responsibility to protect not only their heritage but also the environments that sustain us all. In a world increasingly disconnected from its roots, the teachings of native cultures shine like beacons, inviting us to reflect on our own paths and embrace a more harmonious existence.
Amazingly, the first writings about fragrant ingredients date back way, way further – to China
Amazingly, the first writings about fragrant ingredients date back way, way further – to China, where aromatic products and a description of their uses was recorded as long ago as 4,500 BC. So does perfumery itself go back further even than this…? It’s hard to believe it doesn’t. Stone Age man had fire, and could burn fragrant woods. Scented plants have existed for hundreds of thousands of years (at least). But until archaeologists dig deeper into perfume history and stumble upon new evidence, we’ve only our imaginations to transport us there…
For more Info
